Friday June 25, 2010
Only in Uganda can you get kicked out of a taxi for bargaining over the fees of public transportation. Although the government has been able to bring peace to the country, financial corruption has trickled down to every level of social hierarchy. Thus, even when a taxi is stated as being 300 shillings, the prices get doubled because we are foreigners. This also plays into a misconception about whites in Uganda: we are all rich. False. We are not rich by any means. In comparison to the people here, we can consider ourselves rich, but we are perceived as being millionaires by the locals. Hence why the prices are raised so much for us. In reality, I could only afford coming on this volunteer trip only due to generous donors. Another harsh reality is that my plane ticket cost more than double what the average household makes in a year in Uganda.
The taxis in Uganda are much different than the taxis back at home. They are vans that have a limit of 12 people. Yet, nearly 14-18 people can be crammed into one taxi. There is a conductor who collects all the payments and regulates order as crowds try and claim their seat at each of the bus stops. We were unable to use our own car for the day, and had to walk to the bus stop. We got on our taxi, and before it took off the conductor told us, “You are white, you must pay 500 shillings (25 cents)”.
“Skin color does not mean that we should pay more! I am a Ugandan and I am their guide. We will pay the set price,” Davids barked in return.
“Every rider must pay the foreigner’s price!” The Conductor yelled back. We sat crammed in the back seat and looked as every passenger looked back in frustration and disbelief that they were being forced to pay a higher price. The arguing continued and we were forced out of the taxi.
We picked up another taxi, and the conductor let us come on for one price. Davids and I sat in front with the driver as we explained our frustrations to him. The driver had a very different insight. He spoke of the importance of equality, and that if the locals continue to cheat visitors out of their money, it will give a bad name to the country. People traveling to Uganda will only help the economy. Another aspect of the issue is that if prices are kept at a set price, areas such as public transportation will still get tipped for the quality of service. To us, there is little difference between 300 shillings, 500 shillings, or even 2,000 shillings. The difference between those numbers for us is literally less than 50 cents. It is simply the principle of the matter.
Friday seemed to be a day full of these “cheaters” trying to take advantage of us for our money. The entire boat ride on the Nile, Davids was speaking in Lugandan to the operator of the boat that we were on. We had no idea what they were talking about, but Davids told us after that they were charging us 80,000 shillings ($40) for the boat ride, when the set price is 25,000 shillings (about $12). Davids was able to bargain his way to 32,000 shillings for the trip to the source of the Nile. We walked away and went up towards a local market that was on a hill above where the boat launched. Other locals tried to talk us into getting onto their boats so they could give us a tour of the Nile. We told them that we already had gone on a ride. One man had said that he hoped the driver gave us a fair price. When we asked what a fair price was, he told us 85,000 shillings. Davids just began laughing at him as we stared in shock and told him that we paid 32,000 shillings.
Good luck with your business.
On the way back from the Nile, we decided to walk back home instead of taking a taxi. We stopped and took a break because of the beautiful view. I began taking pictures of the landscapes and cows that were grazing in the nearby field. A man out in the distance began walking towards us and as he came closer he told us that we had to pay him for taking pictures of his country. Are you kidding me?! Apparently photography isn’t free anymore either. Of course we didn’t pay him and continued on our way.
I had enough of these cheaters for one day.
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I can understand your frustration and I've definitely felt it myself traveling in India and Tanzania. Part of me, however, has become reconciled with the process of being asked to pay more as a white person (even one who doesn't have the cash). I, too, will haggle a Bangalore rickshaw driver for 20 minutes over a 50 cents fee 'increase' for The Principle. However, the thing that has changed for me over the years and the 100 encounters like you've described here... is that I no longer see it as 'cheating' and I don't get angry. I expect it. I understand them trying to get a bit more. I believe they should try because to them 30,000 shillings means a huge difference to their family... their food purchasing ability... their ability to pay for electricity so their children can study at night. I usually tip higher when someone is honest and doesn't try to 'cheat' me... but I never get angry when they try to ask for me. I actually find haggling fun and I just laugh and walk away if their requests are very absurd. It is more embarassing for your guide/friend who knows what the price should be... but if you let him know that you are willing not to do an activity, or get in a taxi, or go someplace if they are insistent on being on fair (not haggling fairly) than it will give him the freedom to haggle more strongly. You can walk away. They really hate that. So keep up the good fight and stand firm on your convictions when you can... otherwise, it is good to be philosophical and allow yourself to break your own rules sometimes. To them, that 30,000 shillings may mean the difference that matters more than you know or imagine. Of course, be ready to laugh and walk away too... with a kind pat or hand shake. Sometimes when they see you don't care (aren't an angry/greedy foreigner) they are more compassionate and open, too.
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